The area bordering the Rio Grande is ripe for exploration.
I had the forethought to pack my passport, in case a fast soar throughout the border was within the playing cards, however forgot my swimsuit whereas getting ready for this journey down the Texas shoreline. Don’t be foolish like me. However for those who have been, you’ll discover that there’s nonetheless loads to get pleasure from on a drive from Houston to the Rio Grande Valley with out both of these items. Over 4 days, pack in some Gulf seafood and the state’s finest Mexican meals, go to ranches brimming with cattle and even alpaca, and let the border communities present you who they are surely.
Day 1
I headed out within the morning with my GPS set, as at all times on the primary leg of any street journey I take, to the closest Buc-ee’s on my route. The Wharton location an hour outdoors of Houston is a delight, in all probability the very best Buc-ee’s I’ve been to. I used to be tempted to purchase a beaver swimsuit to make up for my packing lapse however had the self-discipline to depart the premises after only a nice journey to the bogs.
I dipped down on SH 71 to Palacios, a small, sleepy oceanside city confusingly pronounced “Puh-lash-us.” The Level, a quaint nook retailer, sadly not sells Vietnamese meals after a change in possession, however it nonetheless has all of your journey and fishing tools wants. I had my coronary heart set on the delicacies for lunch, as the town has a large Vietnamese inhabitants who got here right here to work within the native shrimping trade within the ’70s. Tran’s Restaurant supplied the repair, serving Vietnamese in addition to Chinese language and pan-Asian dishes. I washed down my sweet-and-sour shrimp with a Vietnamese Arnold Palmer (a mixture of jasmine tea and housemade limeade).
Cease by the Metropolis by the Sea Museum if it’s open (it’s one hundred pc volunteer-run, so it won’t be), which has native historical past and wildlife displays and serves because the headquarters of the Palacios Space Historic Affiliation. Sitting proper behind the museum with a view of the ocean, the historic Luther Lodge is spectacular however has seen higher days. It was purchased in August 2024 by JP Bryan, proprietor of the Bryan Museum in Galveston, and is now headed for a considerate restoration spearheaded by the Palacios Preservation Affiliation. Locals hope the trouble will deliver extra tourism to the city.
A fuel-up at Previous Principal Bookstore and Espresso Store was warranted—a café hybrid with extra books than locations to place them, proprietor Jan Pierce’s made-to-order espresso drinks, and Buddy the resident grey cat. I like to recommend peeing right here relatively than on the mediocre Buc-ee’s in Port Lavaca 30 miles down the street. Proceed on SH 35 to see the Large Tree, a large dwell oak in Goose Island State Park that’s estimated to be between 1,000 and a pair of,000 years outdated.
Pay your respects to the Texas shoreline by way of Port Aransas.
When you get to Aransas Go, you’ll see an indication with the wait time for the ferry (5 minutes for me, however locals warned me this stretch will get backed up throughout the busy season).
The Alister Sq. Inn is serviceable (rooms begin at $69 per night time); except you spring for a personal rental, Port Aransas will not be precisely the place you’ll discover comfy luxurious. After a short lie-down, I walked a couple of minutes to Lelo’s Island Bar for a fast mai tai, then found KC’s Oyster Shack. This teeny 14-seater is a superb time. The workers lay out oysters on a built-in ice mattress on the bar counter—assist your self, and so they’ll tally up your shells while you’re executed. A blackboard above the bar paperwork the file for many bivalves eaten in a single sitting, which on the time of my go to was 72 for girls (extra particularly, Barbara) and 165 for males (Kevin).
I—and everybody else who had simply dined at KC’s, apparently—went to the Busted Bicycle subsequent door for one more (OK) cocktail, then had a (a lot better) nightcap at Palm Social Membership by the pier. The bar has dwell music virtually each night time, the largest patio on the town, and a comfy, lounge–like inside.
Day 2
When you’ve got time, packed your swimsuit, and didn’t have one too many in downtown Port A the night time earlier than, take your self to one of many major seashores to splash within the ocean or pancake within the sand. None of those utilized to me, so I headed to Chapel on the Dunes. It’s slightly onerous to identify, however simply search for behind the gray-green cottage and use the indicated path to go up the steps. This minuscule, white marriage ceremony chapel seats 18 on pews and options lovely floor-to-ceiling work. Catch a free tour each first and third Saturday at 9:15am (with extra occasions out there on request); you can even simply peer by the home windows as an alternative.
The Chapel on the Dunes is perched on a hill in a residential Port Aransas neighborhood.
After making your approach south and off the island, you’ll end up on probably the most drab a part of the drive for about an hour. Simply placed on a terrific album or podcast till you arrive at King Ranch. At a whopping 825,000 acres, it’s the most important ranch in the US. The well-known American Thoroughbred racehorse Assault, a Triple Crown winner, was born, bred, and buried right here. A 90-minute bus tour ($20 for adults) covers some historical past of the property and its interior workings in the present day, and provides you loads of alternatives to see horses and cattle, together with dozens of longhorns.
Drive one other 87 miles down I-69 by cattle land to satisfy extra animal associates: a herd of very cute and foolish alpacas at Alpaquita Ranch. The expertise ($249 an evening) features a keep within the wood A-frame Airbnb (adorned in all issues alpaca) in addition to a 40-minute session with an precise alpaca. After supplying you with a security spiel, the workers arms you one on a leash to stroll across the grounds and take pictures with. Whereas enjoyable, I noticed fairly rapidly that there was solely a lot one might do with an alpaca in hand, so I returned Rosanna inside 10 minutes. Her handler that day determined that merely wouldn’t do. She compelled me to get again on the market and made me and Rosanna pose for pictures across the property. I did respect how a lot she cared.
I had made a reservation for dinner at Le Rêve in Brownsville that night, not realizing how far the town was from the alpaca farm (an hour). I do advocate each, however you would possibly need to plan higher than I did.
Le Rêve in Brownsville serves French-American meals like steak tartare.
Be warned: Parking in downtown Brownsville is untenable. I circled a number of occasions till I finally determined that squatting in a “15-minute parking enforced” spot was well worth the ticket (which I didn’t get). The restaurant, which serves French-American delicacies, has a dim-lit, horny vibe with dark-blue paneling and brick partitions. The Parker Home rolls, drizzled with garlic-fermented honey and served with lemon-chamomile butter, are wonderful, as are the crispy veal sweetbreads with vol-au-vent puff pastry and maitake mushrooms. Cease by Las Ramblas just a few doorways down for a cocktail earlier than you make the trek again as much as the ranch.
Day 3
Breakfast at Alpaquita Ranch is dropped at your door within the morning. Take a while to get pleasure from it on the deck. It’s also possible to let the alpacas into the pen adjoining your Airbnb and feed them—heads up, they’re very excitable round meals and don’t have any sense of non-public area.
I drove again down the valley, this time to McAllen. With its colourful homes, mercados, and taquerias lining the street, this stretch of the drive offers the very best really feel for the area. Simply earlier than coming into McAllen correct, I made a pointy proper at Delia’s in Edinburg for midmorning tamales, then got down to discover the town.
McAllen struck me because the sort of city that focuses on making itself a pleasant place to dwell for locals—and energy to them. But it surely’s barely tougher to crack open as a vacationer; there have been just a few art-centered companies I had wished to go to that weren’t open on the weekend. I grabbed a honey lavender latte at Kreative Espresso Grounds, which additionally sells native artwork and affords canvases ($5–25) for folks to color throughout their go to. Right here, I additionally made two extra feline associates, Allie (who’s sleepy) and Theo (who’s naughty). I then headed to the Worldwide Museum of Artwork and Science, which featured some images; kid-friendly interactive displays revolving round sound, mild, coloration, and movement; and group shows within the hallway with artwork from school-age children. The present store is skippable, however Ante Books, a brand new indie bookstore 5 minutes away from the museum down Bicentennial Boulevard, will not be. Verify the store’s Instagram for particular occasions, like stamp carving or a “scrap and yap.”
There are two eating places you need to dine at earlier than you allow the RGV. The primary, Ana Liz Taqueria in Mission, is a hole-in-the-wall so good its chef, Ana Liz Pulido, gained the James Beard Finest Chef: Texas award in 2024. Each desk is greeted with six home made salsas in little ramekins, and all of the tortillas are made in-house, too. The Copy taco—fajita meat on a half-yellow, half-blue corn tortilla—and the Vampiro taco with deshebrada on blue maiz are highlights. Add a aspect of grilled cambray onions.
The second, Nana’s Taqueria in Weslaco, is a totally totally different vibe. It’s positioned in a sprawling former residence that’s been painted with colourful murals on the surface, and inside it’s bustling with native households and vacationers. Attempt the lonches with floor beef—a specialty of Nuevo Progreso, the place the house owners are from—and an enormous jamaica with gummies.
When you’ve gotten your fill, it’s time to move again north. (Whereas I did spend a while happening Reddit-thread rabbit holes, I made a decision to not cross the border this journey regardless of having remembered my passport, however Nuevo Progreso seems to be the very best wager for a fast go to.)
Sal Del Rey makes for a gorgeous and fast pit cease earlier than heading again north from the valley.
Individuals within the valley drive on the freeway with Houstonesque gusto, so that you’ll really feel proper at house. In your approach again up, cease by Sal Del Rey, a cool salt lake that’s accessible by turning off 186, driving two miles on an unpaved street, and strolling about 5 minutes by a wooded space. Snap a fast pic and get again on 281. Be ready to cease at a Customs and Border Safety checkpoint—no two experiences would be the similar, however anticipate not less than one or two routine questions.
This a part of the journey has fewer factors of curiosity, but when it’s essential to stretch your legs earlier than Victoria I counsel stopping in George West to see Geronimo, a really particular longhorn in these components, stuffed and displayed in entrance of the courthouse. After one other 80 miles on 59, you’ll arrive in Victoria and might face-plant on the very comfy mattress on the charming Inn on Principal (rooms begin at $130).
Day 4
Victoria is a cute faculty city with simply sufficient actions for the final day of an action-packed street journey. Start your day at 5 Factors Museum of Up to date Artwork, opened in 2016 by Ann Harithas, cofounder of Houston’s Artwork Automobile Parade. It’s a beautiful area in a former Lincoln and Mercury dealership, and every exhibition incorporates an artwork automobile. I loved a retrospective of Jesse Lott (one other Houstonian) in March, however anticipate to see Lookout: Work by Davey Eldridge for those who go to this summer time.
Stroll round Mission Espiritu Santo in Goliad earlier than or after visiting Victoria.
For some fascinating Texas historical past, head to Goliad. You’ll must retrace your steps about half-hour (or do that on day three as an alternative). Mission Espiritu Santo and Presidio la Bahía are a mile aside and don’t take lengthy to stroll round.
Lastly, make your approach again to Victoria for lunch at LaVaca BBQ. (Word: There’s a location in Port Lavaca, if that matches your itinerary higher.) First-timers are given an intensive rundown of the menu and a few samples. I opted for the sausage with serrano and queso blanco, the brisket beans, and the very best banana pudding I’ve ever had, which had an virtually whipped texture. I took it to go and couldn’t resist sneaking spoonfuls whereas driving one-armed all the best way again to Houston.
